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CITY GUIDE OF

VENICE

2016 EDITION Experience Partner

VENICE About us WeAGoo is a company specializing in the collection and processing of short and essential tourist information for historical, artistic, cultural, natural and architectural. WeAGoo, in his research and review site, is making extensive geographical mapping including both big tourist attractions is the smaller towns. The primary activity of WeAGoo is to repay such information in its weagoo.com portal providing search capabilities of the points of interest and immediate results. From the portal you can create, generate, sort and print your itineraries with places, maps, images, notes and information of the city. Users who register for free can take advantage of more features such as saving their routes in a user profile, creating a multicity travel plans and some social components. All information and features of this portal are offered free of charge to visitors. WeAGoo LTD It allows you to freely distribute and share these guides provided they are not modified. And ‘it allowed to use the link, but not the distribution of finished products from different server than the original download identified and / or indicated by WeAGoo s.r.l. .. WeAGoo srl, it is available to the shares of co-branding and de-branding. Please contact our office or write to [email protected]

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ENCHANTING VENICE world. Along with its lagoon, it is listed among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This has made it the second city in Italy, after Rome, for the number of tourists visiting, particularly from abroad. The city’s boundary includes most of the lagoon, but also extends onto the mainland, comprising the vast metropolitan area around Mestre. The city is spread over 118 small islands, connected by 354 bridges and divided by 177 rii, or small rivers, and canals. Besides being a paradise for modern art lovers, every two years Venice holds one of the most important international exhibitions for contemporary art: the Venice Biennial. In Venice you can visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Peggy’s house, full of masterpieces by contemporary artists. Venice provides the ideal setting for classical music and opera, combining perfectly with the harmonies of symphony and chamber music. You can listen to excellent classical music at La Fenice theatre, recently

In Roman times, Venice was the name of the North-Eastern region of Italy. After the decline of the Longobards (568), however, it came to denote some of the small urban centres that had formed on the islands of the lagoon between the Adige and Piave rivers. The economic base of these centres was trade between the countries of the Near East and Northern Europe (Germany and Flanders). The city of Venice was capital of the Republic of Venice for over a millennium and, as such, was known as “la Serenissima” (most serene), la Dominante (ruler) and “la Regina dell’Adriatico” (Queen of the Adriatic). These names were in opposition to “la Superba” (superb) or “la Dominante dei Mari” (ruler of the seas), which referred to Genoa, Venice’s main rival and opponent. Due to its peculiar features as a city and to its artistic heritage, Venice is universally considered one of the most beautiful cities in the

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ABOUT THE CITY

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rebuilt, or at the Malibran theatre. Every year the Music Biennial is held, a big international event for contemporary music. Art, great art, the true Venetian art of Carpaccio, Bellini, Giorgione and Titian, of Tintoretto and Veronese, of Tiepolo and Guardi, extends beyond the walls of the museums and churches. It can be found in the changing colours of the waters and tall buildings, in the stonework of the arcades and loggias, in the chimneys above the roofs and in glimpses of figures on the other side of a bridge or street. The signs of history, deep and poignant, are everywhere: the epic story of a city that was reclaimed from the waters and developed in the shadow of Byzantium, thanks to merchant trading and shipping; the aristocratic Republic that shone in art, politics and culture between the 14th and 16th centuries; Venice in slow, fascinating decline until the end of the Venetian State in 1797, then immersed in the life and problems of the new era - ours. It is this solidity, a mixture of the “atmospheric” and the concrete, that makes a trip to Venice, however short, one of the most rewarding you will ever make in your life. In Venice, people get around on foot, by steamboat or by gondola, one of the many symbols of the lagoon city. The word gondola is first documented in a decree of 1094 and may derive from two Latin terms, one meaning “small boat”, the other meaning “shell”. Or it may derive from a Greek word meaning a “push boat”. The gondolas we see today are the result of slow transformations over the centuries in form, size and finish. The most extraordinary event by far is the Venice Carnival, which draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from every country. For about ten days, the streets are filled with colour, and some astounding masks can be admired. During this period, Venice abounds with music, fun and games.

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GETTING ABOUT IN VENICE GONDOLA Floating along the canals of Venice in the most famous boat in the world, the gondola, is certainly an unforgettable and very romantic experience, though not a very economical one.

ON FOOT Due to its size, Venice can be seen entirely on foot, and this is perhaps the best way to see the real Venice and discover its most unusual nooks and crannies. Take a good map and “lose your way” among bridges, lanes and squares, outside the main tourist areas. It will give you an idea of what “Venetian” really means.

TAXI BOAT For the independent tourist wanting to visit Venice at their own pace, the best solution is definitely a taxi boat. Scores of private transport companies offer various types and sizes of boat, for tourist trips of different length and route.

FROM THE AIRPORT If you are arriving by plane from Marco Polo Airport in Venice, you can reach the historical centre in several ways: Street taxi: just 15 minutes to Piazzale Roma. From Piazzale Roma you can go anywhere in the city on foot, or by ACTV steamboat. Water taxi: this is perhaps the quickest way to reach the centre of Venice – about 30 minutes – but definitely the most costly. ATVO Shuttle Bus: provides a direct connection from Marco Polo Airport to Piazzale Roma in 20 minutes (€ 8). There is also a Flybus shuttle service from Marco Polo Airport to Mestre Railway Station. Bus ACTV: the airport is also connected to Piazzale Roma by ACTV bus 5, which takes 30 minutes. And ACTV bus 15 connects it to Mestre Railway Station.

STEAMBOAT These are used to go up and down the Grand Canal in the centre of the city. FERRY BOAT Used for minor and major routes connecting Venice to its islands. http://actv.avmspa.it/en/content/actvferry-boat MOTORBOAT Used in circumnavigation for its high speed and low height, due to the need to pass under low bridges. PEOPLE MOVER The automated system of public transport known as people movers connects the Isola del Tronchetto with Piazzale Roma, via the socalled Maritime area. This has speeded up the journey considerably (on foot it takes about 20 minutes, 3 minutes with the People Mover), also due to the frequency of the service (every 7 minutes from 7 am to 11 pm). http://actv.avmspa.it/en/content/peoplemover-0 BUS The city has a normal public transport network (buses and trams), used on the mainland and on the islands of Lido and Pellestrina. Many lines also run at night. 7

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ALL VENICE CITY PASS INFORMATION DURATION : 1 week PRICE : from € 25,90 With Venezia Unica - All Venice City Pass, you’ll have complete access to all the cultural activities the city has to offer. With just one pass in your hands, you will be able to easily obtain your tickets for museums, churches, and a lot more. Plan your vacation in Venice and take advantage of the right to skip the line at the entrance of the Venetian Civic Museums. Buy your Venezia Unica City Pass online. After completing the purchase process, you will receive by email a voucher with a barcode. To access the museums, churches and other services all you’ll need to do is show your voucher at the entrance. In addition, by showing the Venezia Unica voucher, you’ll benefit from favorable discounts in many stores (restaurants, shops, exhibitions) around the city.

JUNIOR Pack (6 to 29 years old) free admission to: - Doge’s Palace and the other 10 Civic Museums of Venice - 16 Churches Circuit Chorus - Querini Stampalia Foundation - Jewish Museum

ADULT Pack (30+ years old) free admission to: - Doge’s Palace and the other 10 Civic Museums of Venice (Correr Museum, Archaeological Museum, National Library of St Mark’s, Ca ‘Rezzonico, Carlo Goldoni’s House, Mocenigo Palace, Ca’ Pesaro, the Museum of Glass of Murano, Merletto di Burano Museum, Natural History Museum) - 16 Churches Circuit Chorus - Querini Stampalia Foundation - Jewish Museum

SAN MARCO Pack (from 6 years old) free admission to: - Doge’s Palace and the other 3 Museums in the Marciana Area - 3 Churches chosen from the Chorus Circuit - Querini Stampalia Foundation

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CITY PASS

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TRANSPORTS

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USEFUL INFORMATION OFFICIAL WEBSITES OF THE CITY For general information, visit the website: www.comune.venezia.it or the official tourist website: www.turismovenezia.it For information on Carnival: www.carnevale.venezia.it TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Azienda di promozione turistica (APT) Via Sestiere Castello, 5050 Tel. +39 041/5298711 [email protected] USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Carabinieri (Military police) Polizia di Stato (State police) Fire Brigade Ambulance Travel information (CCISS)

112 113 115 118 1518

CLIMATE Venice’s climate is typical of the Po plain, although the lowest winter temperatures are comparatively mild, due to its proximity to the sea (3°C on average), and the highest summer temperatures (24°C on average) are lower. It can be considered somewhere in between a continental climate and a Mediterranean climate. The rainiest season is in Spring and Autumn, and thunderstorms are frequent in Summer. In Winter, snowfalls are not uncommon (but the snow usually melts quite quickly). However, at night the temperature often drops below freezing point and, in the innermost areas, even the waters of the lagoon freeze.  

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INFORMATION

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POINTs OF INTEREST

TiP (tourist informations in pills) churches.........................................pag 15 buildings.........................................pag 19 museums........................................pag 23 structures........................................pag 27 squares / streets.............................pag 31

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Musement is a digital platform that allows you to find andbook ticketsto museums, exhibitions and tours as well as Food&Wine activities, city passes, balloon, helicopter rides, sports events, musicalsand... and much more THE BEST TOURS Musement’s expert team handpicks the best tours to do around the world with different options for every budget. Offers range from small group tours to private guides, from skip-the-line museum and exhibition tickets to city passes, and many more unforgettable experiences.

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EASY AND SECURE BOOKING We treat your cards and data with care. Reserve your travel activities on musement. com and receive immediate confirmation.

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Classic Venice Gondola Ride Embark on a gondola ride through the Grand Canal where you will see wondrous beauty and culture in every direction. You will be in the S. Maria della Salute area and in the minor canals / Fenice area. The magnificent journey ends at the station Vallaresso (Dogana) dock.

INFORMATION DURATION : 30 minutes AVAILABILITY : every day PRICE : from € 31,00

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Exclusive VIP Alone in St. Mark’s Basilica After Hours Tour Explore the most famous sight in Venice and one of the most magnificent churches in the world without the lines or crowds. A Basilica guard unlocks the doors just for Walks of Italy and its small groups of maximum 15 participants. It’s the ultimate in VIP treatment, and the most exclusive way to visit St. Mark’s Basilica - it will be an experience you will never forget! INFORMATION DURATION : 1 hour and 30 minutes AVAILABILITY : selected dates PRICE : from € 89,00

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Skip the Line ACTV Public Transport Pass Up to 7 Days The best way to have all the most beautiful sights of Venice at hand is travelling by means of public transport. On a single ticket, you can avail yourself of buses and vaporetto (water buses), with no limit! The ACTV ticket allows you to move freely within the territory of the city of Venice by the ACTV public transport services. INFORMATION DURATION : 1 day AVAILABILITY : every day PRICE : from € 8,00

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Peggy Guggenheim Collection Tickets The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice is found in the former home of artistic heiress Peggy Guggenheim, in Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, with a beautiful view on the Grand Canal. This ticket gives you access to one of the most important 20th century art museums in the world as well as to the temporary exhibitions. INFORMATION DURATION : 1 day AVAILABILITY : every day PRICE : from € 19,50

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The Museums of St Mark’s Square - Pass valid for 3 months A single ticket valid for: Doge’s Palace, Museo Correr and current exhibition, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

INFORMATION DURATION : flexible AVAILABILITY : every day PRICE : from € 22,50

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Excursion to the Islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello Excursion to the Venetian Lagoon for the visit of islands famous for the handcrafts: Murano for the glass factory, Burano for the laces, Torcello for the first cathedral in Venice. Sailing along the islands of San Giorgio Maggiore, San Servolo, San Lazzaro degli Armeni and Sant’Elena Gardens the boat gets at Murano. INFORMATION DURATION : 4 hours and 30 minutes AVAILABILITY : tutti i giorni PRICE : from € 20,00

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Basilica of Saint Marco

Piazza San Marco, 302/a - Venice The basilica is the most admired place in Venice and is worthy of the magnitude. Over time it has been enriched with all sorts of treasures that were often brought to Venice by merchants from the Far East. Its architecture is both Byzantine, Roman and Venetian. It was first built on the ruins of two churches, the place where legend says that an angel pointed out the way to St. Mark while sailing to Rome, the place of his burial.

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Basilica of Saints John and Paul

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Basilica of our Lady of Health

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Basilica of Saint Mary Gloriosa of Frari

Campo Giovanni e Paolo Santissimi - Venice Consecrated in the first half of the fifteenth century, The church facade has a series of Gothic arches while the Portal, added later, reveals a rennaisance influence. It contains many important art works including a Polyptych by G.Bellini and a painting by L.Lotto. Interesting monuments and tombs of Illustrious citizens makes Saint John and Paul Basilica the pantheon of Venetian History.

Fondamenta della Dogana alla Salute, 2-9 - Venice Seventeenth-century church dedicated to the Virgin, a masterpiece of Venetian Baroque architecture, was built after the liberation of Venice from a plague epidemic , was begun by B. Longhena but did not see it accomplished. Beautiful set of statues that decorate the facade and the interior, octagonal floor plan houses important paintings: San Marco and the saints, an early work by Titian, author also of three wonderful paintings on the ceiling, and Tintoretto’s Wedding at Cana.

Campo dei Frari, 3002 - Venice Formerly called Ca ‘Grande, built between 1236 and 1338 by the Franciscan Friars Minor Conventual, was rebuilt in the fourteenth century in grand gothic-Franciscan style. The impressive tower of the fourteenth century is one of the highest in Venice. Inside valuable paintings, including one of the masterpieces of Titian, the Assumption, the Triptych of the Virgin and Saints by Giovanni Bellini and a wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, by Donatello. 15

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CHURCHES

VENICE

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Basilica of Saint George Maggiore

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Monastery of Saint George Maggiore

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Church and Cemetry of Saint Michele

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Church of Saint James of Rialto

Campo Nani O Barbaro, 1 - Venice The church, with a noble facade of classic lines by Palladio, was completed in 1611, after his death. In 1800, in the hall of conclave of the basilica of St. George Maggiore, the cardinal Barnaba Chiaramonte was elected Pope with the name of Pio VII. The interior, a latin cross with three naves, the church conserves works of Jacopo Palma, jacopo Tintoretto, Sebastiano Ricci and Carpaccio.

Campo Nani O Barbaro, 1 - Venice The important Benedictine monastery, seat of the “Giorgio Cini” foundation since 1951, is built on the island of the same name with a complex set of environments, built around a design by Andrea Palladium and structured around the church and the two cloisters. Wonderful work of Baldassarre Longhena which has taken the staircase of honour, the new façade and the novitiate. Here the Doge Memmo was forced to go to die, after having been made monarch after a riot in the streets.

Fondamenta Serenella, 3-6 - Venice The island as it is known from 1807, houses the cemetery of Venice and the large amount of famous people buried there makes it one of the most popular tourist attractions of the city. Among them Ezra Pound, Igor Stravinsky, but also Helenio Herrera and Emilio Vedova.The church built on a project by architect Mauro Codussi since 1469 is considered the first Renaissance church of Venice.

Sestiere San Polo, 122 - Venice Traditionally it is considered the oldest church in Venice, built in 421 by a carpenter, Candioto or Eutinopo and was voted as saint for having put out a serious fire. It seems, however, that it dates back to 1152. Interesting the outside with the bell tower,the Gothic porch and the great clock one of the last remaining examples of its kind in the city. Its history is linked to the local market: an inscription on the exterior apse invites traders to honesty. 16

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Church of the Redeemer

Sestiere Giudecca, 195 - Venice It is an important religious building designed by Palladio in 1577on the island of Giudecca. Within are works by Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Palma il Giovane,Francesco Bassano, Alvise Vivarini, and Pietro della Vecchia. It is traditionally the focus of the great Feast of the Redeemer, celebrated on the third Sunday of July in memory of the narrow escape of a plague that struck the city in 1575.

10 Church of our Lady of the Lily

Campo Santa Maria Zobenigo, 2515-2520 - Venice It takes its name from the Jubanico family whom founded it in the ninth century naming it after Mary of the Lily. An extraordinary Baroque facade by Sardi. Inside, works by Tintoretto and a Holy Family by Rubens, the only flemish work in Venice. It was rebuilt as a monument to the Barbaro family in the 1600s. Ruskin, English intellectual, for this reason has called it , “an insolent atheistic expression not dedicated exclusively to God”.

11 Cathedral of Murano

Calle San Donato, 10-12 - Venice Probably founded in the seventh century, the church, a basilica,is divided into three naves, separated in turn by five greek marble columns, with capitals of a Venetian-Byzantine style. Inside is a grand mosaic depicting the Virgin praying. Worthy of note is the square bell tower, divided into three orders, and concluded by a belfry with three lights and hanging arches.

12 Church of Saint Mary Formosa

Campo Santa Maria Formosa - Venice It was erected in 639 by St. Magnus Oderzo to whom the Virgin had appeared and pointed to this place for the edification of the church dedicated to her. It was renewed in 864, and after a fire in 1106. Being in a state of decay was rebuilt in 1492 by Mauro Codussi. Within the Church are major works by Palma il Vecchio, Bartolomeo Vivarini and Giambattista Tiepolo.

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Ducal Palace

Riva degli Schiavoni, 4209 - Venice Open to the public as a museum, is in effect part of the Venetian Civic Museums system and the seat of the “Office for the Environmental and Architectural Heritage of Venice and the Lagoon.” The first permanent settlements in the Venetian lagoon dating back probably to the fall of the Roman Empire, the ducal palace was founded first as a conglomeration of several buildings, passing as a castle and to the current familiar look by the Doge Gradenigo Bartholomew in 1340.

Rezzonico House

Fondamenta Rezzonico, 3136 - Venice The current home of the Museum of eighteenth century Venice, was built in 1649 by Venetian architect Longhena for the Bon family. Remained unfinished until Giambattista Rezzonico, merchant and banker, bought the building in 1751 and entrusted its completion to Giorgio Massari, famous and eclectic architect. Over time, was stripped of furniture, divided between the heirs and then sold in 1935 after long and complex negotiations to the City council of Venice.

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Golden House

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Grand School of Saint Rocco

Calle Ca’ d’Oro, 3934 - Venice The Golden House, built in the first half of 400 by Marino Contarini, is a symbol of Venice with the Gothic-style architecture typical of the lodges opening onto the Grand Canal. The baron Giorgio Franchetti, who had bought and restored it at the end of ‘800, gifted the Palace and its art collections to the State in 1915. Among the works: paintings of Giovanni Bellini,Carpaccio, “Saint Sebastian” by Mantegna and even paintings by Titian, Giorgione, Tintoretto.

Campo San Rocco - Venice The Grand School of Saint Rocco, a brotherhood made up of wealthy Venetian citizens , was founded in 1478 and became very prosperous around 1515. In 1564 Tintoretto was asked to decorate the school. All works are his or of his students. Of particular value is the Hall. The wonderful series of paintings made in the three rooms between 1564 and 1588 these are to Venice as is the Sistine Chapel to Rome. 19

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BUILDINGS

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Foscari House

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German Fontego

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Contarini of Bovolo Manor

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Giustinian House

Calle Foscari, 3257-3259 - Venice It is a gothic palace in 1453 of Bartolomeo Bon, now home to the University Foscari House University of Venice. Stands on the site of another building, called “House of the TwoTowers” which was to be the residence of Gianfrancesco Gonzaga, lord of Mantova, and vice-captain of the Venetian army. Was instead used to house guests illustrious persons of the Serenissima. Recent renovations have revealed a frecoed floor of the fifteenth century, with gilded ceilings of the sixteenth century.

Calle Fontego dei Tedeschi, 5343 - Venice It is an ancient foundation (XIII century) and tied to the business needs of the Republic of Venice, was meeting place of the goods transported by German merchants, here stored in warehouses. Was rebuilt after a fire in 1508 with frescoes on the facade, now lost, of Giorgione and Titian Vecellio. The interior contains works of inestimable value, by the painters Paulo Veronese, Tiziano Vecellio and Jacopo Tintoretto, of which today almost every trace has been lost.

Corte Contarini, 4304-4306 - Venice In Gothic style, from the end of 1400, is famous for its round tower with spiral staircase (known as “bovolo” in Venetian dialect), which terminates in a dome with wide view looking out over the city. Was used by Wilhelm Tempel as an astronomical observatory, and from there he discovered a comet in 1859 as well as the Merope nebula. It is now the property of the Hospital and Education Institutions.

Calle Giustinian, 3232 - Venice It consists of two twin buildings that were built in the second half of the fifteenth century: the right building, which is home to the University “Ca’Foscari”, is known as Ca’ Giustinian of the Bishops, the name of the branch of that family whom lived there, the other (private) as Ca ‘Giustiniani of Zogie. Behind the facade they are separated by a narrow street that comes through a sotoportego to the central porch. The painters Natale Schiavoni and Wagner lived here. 20

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Grassi - Stucky House

Campo San Samuele - Venice The project is of architect Giorgio Massari. It is the last building that was built before the collapse of the Republic of Venice, was finished in 1772. The grand staircase was decorated with frescoes by Michelangelo Morlaiter and Francesco Zanchi. It was renovated in 2005 by Tadao Ando. It houses the François Pinault Foundation and the François Pinault Collection, which is one of five collections of modern art and the world’s largest contemporary art collection with works by Rothko,Manzoni, Hirst, Warhol and others.

10 Grimani Palace of Saint Luca

Calle Grimani - Venice Imposing Venetian Renaissance palace built in the mid-1500s. The large windows are related to the legend that a Grimani, wanting to marry a Tiepolo, heard from her father that he would never give his daughter’s hand to desperate man whom did not own a home on the canal. To which Grimani risponded, promising that he would build a house with windows larger than the entrance of Ca ‘Tiepolo, and so he did .

11 Barbarigo House

Campo San Vio, 730 - Venice The building was built in the sixteenth century, during the Renaissance period and its façade is one of the most characteristics of the Grand Canal, which stands out for the coverage of a Murano glass mosaic, applied in 1886 by the will of the then owners, owners of a glass factory. Since XX century it became the headquarters of Pauly & C. – a Venetian Murano glass company.

12 Dario House

Calle San Cristoforo, 699/b - Venice The building was built in 1479 by Pietro Lombardo on behalf of the owner Giovanni Dario, Secretary of the Senate of the Republic of Venice. Distinctive for the polychromatic marble that decorates the facade in Renaissance style. On which hangs a curse stating the owners are likely to end up bankrupt or die a violent death. One of the last owners was Raoul Gardini.

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Marciana National Library

Piazzetta San Marco - Venice It owes its origin to the patronage of Cardinal Bessarion, who donated his collection in 1468: 750 codes, some 250 manuscripts and printed works. The Marciana then increased its collections through transfers to the library from some monasteries, as well as due to the obligation imposed on printers to deposit a copy of every book published, as required by a Venetian law of 1603. Now has a million volumes.

Open from Monday to Friday from 8.00 to 19.00; Saturday from 8.00 to 13.30.

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Sotoportego Centanni, 713 - Venice Surely the most important museum in Italy for European and American art of the first half of the twentieth century. It is based in Venice at the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal, in what was the home of Peggy Guggenheim. Opened in 1951 by the niece of Solomon R Guggenheim, wealthy American industrialist and art collector, the museum houses works by Picasso, Dali, Magritte, Pollock, Fontana, and others. Peggy Guggenheim is buried in an urn placed in the private garden.

Open every day, except Tuesday, from 10.00 to 18.00. Entry fee 12 €.

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Museum of Natural History

Sestiere Santa Croce, 1730 - Venice The Turkish Fontego of the thirteenth century, is one of the most distinctive among the palaces overlooking the Grand Canal, well-recognized for its elegantly decorated facade . It houses the museum with three large sections that deal with the Natural History from three different points of view, paleontology, evolution of collecting and natural form and function in living things.

1 June-31 October: from Tuesday to Sunday 10.00-18.00. 1 November-31 May: from Tuesday to Friday: 9.00-17.00; Saturday and Sunday 10.00-18.00. Entry fee 8 €.

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Naval Historical Museum and Arsenal

Sestiere Castello, 3376 - Venice Owned by the Navy is located at the Arsenal. The museum collects evidence and historical information about navigation and in particular the history of Italian seafaring and Venetian seamanship. The museum was officially opened in 1923. The main building contains art and memorabilia associated with the history of the Italian navy in 42 exhibition rooms distributed on a total of five floors.

Open from Monday to Friday from 8.45 to 13.30, Saturday from 8.45 to 13.00. Entry fee 1,55 €.

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MUSEUMS

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Correr Museum

Piazza San Marco, 52 - Venice Named after Teodoro Correr, Venetian nobleman of ancient family who left to the Municipality of Venice its rich collections, gathered during his life with passion in a time when the city seemed unable to not lose its enormous historical and artistic heritage. This is one of the first large collection of works, over time they were joined by gifts and purchases that now form the complex and diverse heritage of the Venetian Civic Museums of Art and History. 1 April-31 October: 10.00-19.00; 1 November-31 March: 10.00-17.00. Entry fee 16 €.

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Museum of Eighteenth Century Venice

Fondamenta Rezzonico, 3136 - Venice It is based in Rezzonico House. On the first floor you can admire paintings, sculptures, furniture and eighteenth-century frescoed ceilings. On the upper floor, which opens with the portego of paintings dominated by two paintings by Canaletto,do not miss the room dedicated to the work of Longhi and the frescoes from the Villa Zianigo created by Giandomenico Tiepolo. The third floor, three environments of a pharmacy “To give St. Marks” and the Egidio Martini Gallery.

1 April-31 October: 10.00-18.00; 1 November-31 March: 10.00-17.00. Entry fee 8 €.

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Museum of Glass

Fondamenta Marco Giustinian, 1-15 - Venice The building is the old palace of the bishops of Torcello on the island of Murano. The collections on display on the first floor of the museum are arranged chronologically: in addition to the archaeological section (mezzanine), which includes significant Roman remains between the first and third centuries after Christ, there, is the widest historical review with important pieces of Murano glass from the fifteenth and the twentieth century, including world-famous masterpieces.

1 April-31 October: 10.00-18.00; 1 November-31 March: 10.00-17.00. Entry fee 8 €.

Home of Carlo Goldoni

Sestiere San Polo, 2794 - Venice It was built in the fifteenth century and retains all the characteristics of Venetian Gothic architecture of that time. Goldoni’s family remained in this house, where Charles was born February 25, 1707, till 1719. It houses a small museum of Goldoni memorabilia and Venetian theatrical artifacts, but focuses its activities, on the old theater studies and the constant increase of its library and archive. 1 April-31 October: 10.00-17.00;

1 November-31 March:10.00-16.00. Entry fee 5 €.

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International Gallery of Modern Art

Calle Pesaro, 2074 - Venice It was designed by the architect Longhena in the 600s by request of the rich and noble family of Pesaro, but not completed until 1710. Is one of the most beautiful Venetian buildings with a baroque facade, decorated with bas-reliefs and statues, which make it unique. Became the property of the Duchess Felicita Bevilacqua La Masa, whom destined the palace to become the modern art gallery in 1902. It houses works by Klimt, Chagall, Kandinsky, Klee, Morandi, De Chirico and others.

1 April-31 October: 10.00-18.00; 1 November-31 March: 10.00-17.00. Entry fee 8 €.

10 Point of Customs

Fondamenta della Dogana alla Salute, 2-9 - Venice The Point of Customs is a new contemporary art center of Venice.The building of the Point of Customs has a simple and rational structure, the volume creates a triangle, directed reference to the shape of the tip of the island of Dorsoduro, while the interior is divided into long rectangles, with a series of parallel walls. The project is by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

Open every day, except Tuesday, from 10.00 to 19.00. Entry fee 15 €.

11 Museum Foundation Querini Stampalia

Calle Querini, 4779 - Venice The museum Querini Stampalia is a historic mansion, located on the second floor of a Sixteenth century building, already inhabited by the patriarch of Venice,embellished with stucco and frescoes. In his elegant rooms, decorated in soft colors and embellished with paintings, furniture, Murano glass chandeliers, tapestries, textiles and porcelain, with one hundred paintings depicting Venice of the 700s, paintings by Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella.

Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 18.00. Entry fee 10 €, reduced fare 8 €.

12 Gallery of the Academy

Campo de la Carità, 1049-1050 - Venice The monumental complex of the Accademy Gallery occupies the prestigious School of Great Saint Mary of Charity. It also includes the homonymous church of Saint Mary and Monastery of the Lateran Canons, designed by Palladio. The museum houses a rich collection of Venetian paintings from the fourteenth century Byzantine and Gothic to Renaissance artists, Bellini, Carpaccio, Giorgione, Veronese, Tintoretto and Tiziano to Tiepolo and Canaletto.

Monday: 8.15-14.00; from Tuesday to Sunday : 8.15-19.15. Entry fee 6,50 €.

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Saint Marks Bell Tower

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The Clock Tower

Piazza San Marco - Venice It is located opposite the Basilica. It has a height of nearly 100 meters topped with a gilded statue of Arch-angel Gabriel with large wings, pushed by the wind, it rotates. When the angel is facing the basilica for the Venetians it is a sign that there will be high water. In 1902 the tower collapsed and the same evening the City Council decided that the bell tower would be rebuilt. In 1903 work started and in 1912 the Angel returned to his place.

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Bridge of Rialto

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Academy Bridge

Ponte di Rialto, 5329 - Venice The Rialto Bridge as we know it is quite recent: it was built in 1588 to replace an older version in wood. The first bridge of boats was made in 1175, replaced by a permanent one in 1265; this was destroyed and rebuilt in 1310. The most famous bridge in Venice, was until 1854 the only one across the Grand Canal. Is divided into three ramps by two rows of shops in the center joined by as many arches. The foundations rest on planks of larch and on 12,000 posts.

Ponte de l’Academia - Venice Is one of the four bridges connecting the two shores of the Grand Canal. Originally made of iron, was opened in 1854. Following the decay of this, a competition was held for the building of a new stone bridge which was never built. Meanwhile, it has been rebuilt in wood, the project of engineer Eugene Miozzi (1889-1979), succesive interventions have added to the original work, metallic elements in stainless steel. The bridge has a length of 48 meters. 27

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Piazza San Marco, 302/a - Venice The Clock Tower is part of a larger building. Built between 1496 and 1499 by architect Mauro Codussi the underneath arch connects Saint Marks Square with the Haberdasheries. The dial in gold and blue enamel marks the time, day, moon phases and signs of the zodiac. The clock is equipped with a carillon of statues representing the Nativity and activated only on the day of Epiphany. Atop the Moors of Venice are located whom sound out 5 minutes before and after the exact hour.

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VENICE

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Bridge of the Barefooted

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Bridge of Sighs

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Arsenal of Venice

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The Phoenix Theatre

Ponte Scalzi - Venice The Bridge of the Barefooted(scalzi), also called the Venice railway bridge was built in 1934 project of engineer Eugenio Miozzi. It consists entirely of a single arch of Istrian stone. The current bridge replaced an old iron bridge built by the Austrians in 1858. The Scalzi Bridge, together with the Rialto Bridge, the Accademia Bridge and the new bridge Calatrava is one of the four bridges that now cross the Grand Canal in Venice.

Riva degli Schiavoni, 4209 - Venice It served as a liaison between the old prison of the Doge’s Palace and the new one. Dubbed the bridge of sighs, because it is imagined that the prisoners who passed through there going to the prison, let out a sigh, knowing that they would never see the light of the sun again. At the center the Istrian stone façade is decorated with a coat of arms of the Doge Marino Grimani, under whose rule the bridge was built with a relief depicting “justice.” It is visible from the indicated point.

Ponte de l’Arsenal - Venice The Arsenal of Venice is a very large part of the inner city and was the heart of the Venetian naval industry from the twelfth century. Representing the most important example of great Overall output of the pre-industrial era. The area is extended over an area of 46 hectares and there worked up to 2000 people a day. Currently only a small part of it is in use, as one of the venues of the Biennale of Venice.

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Campo San Fantin, 1918-1984 - Venice The Phoenix is the largest opera house in Venice. Completely destroyed by fire in 1996, it was rebuilt in the style of the previous, after about eight years, the new theater was opened in 2003 with a concert conducted by Riccardo Muti. Already home to an ‘important opera season and the International festival of contemporary music, the theater “La Fenice” was inaugurated in 1792 with the opera of Giovanni Paisiello, “games of Agrigento”.

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VENICE

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Calatrava Bridge or of the Constitution

Ponte della Costituzione - Venice The fourth bridge over the Grand Canal was opened in 2008, arched frame steel, the glass floors of Saint Gobain, trachyte and Istrian stone. Inside the handrails LED lamps are installed to dissipate the beam of light in the glass railings. The bridge is 94 meters long. and has a center width of 8.1 meters. The width varies from 5:58 up to 9:38 m in the middle. The height varies from 3.20 to 9.28 meters. at the center.

10 Bridge of Fists

Ponte dei Pugni - Venice Present on the four highest flagstones are four footprints in Istrian stone and takes its name from an ancient tradition of Venice, the War of blows, which was also practiced on other bridges in Venice. The Castellani and Nicolotti, two opposing factions clashed in “punches” on top of the bridge with the intention of throwing opponents into the river below. The fights were banned in 1705 when from punches they passed to knife fights.

11 Bridge of Tits

Calle de l’Agnella - Venice To avoid the number of homosexuals in Venice to grow so high as to become a danger to the survival of the city, the Senate decided that on this bridge it was granted to prostitutes to showcase their virtues to attract an audience of men, and maintain their uses and customs of a heterosexual culture.

12 Bridge of Straw

Riva degli Schiavoni - Venice The bridge is often crowded with tourists not only because it allows a good view of the Bridge of Sighs and throughout the Basin of Saint Marks Square, but also because,in the summer evenings, it offers the most beautiful Venetian sunsets with the sun setting behind the Basilica of Health. The name “of Straw” is derived from boats moored there, full of straw, as demonstrated by some of the laws and ordinances of the Republic, which prohibited such habits. 29

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1

Saint Marks Square

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Grand Canal

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Jewish Ghetto

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Field of Saint Angelo

Piazza San Marco - Venice Saint Marks Square is defined as the most beautiful square in the world. Renaissance in character and can easily be counted as the most visited and most beautiful in the world. It is located in front of the Basilica of Saint Mark. The other sides are, the Clock Tower, the Old Magistrates and Brand new neoclassical wing. At these stands the bell tower of Saint Mark, light house of ancient mariners. The tower marks the entrance to Saint Marks square with its facade of the Ducal Palace.

Canal Grande - Venice Bisects the city and is the largest waterway in Venice. It winds in loops for four kilometers, drawing a great S , with a width ranging from 30 to 70 metres and a depth of 5.20 metres. Along its banks are lined around 200 splendid buildings, built on stilts by the ancient Venetian aristocracy. It ‘became the most elegant street in the world. It is crossed by three bridges: the Bridge of Scalzi, the Bridge ofRialto and the Accademia Bridge.

Ghetto di Sestiere Cannaregio, 2892 - Venice The ghetto in Venice was the area of Venice where Jews were forced to reside during the period of the Venetian Republic. Its name derives from the word ghetto. During the 1500s there were built several synagogues, one for each group of homogeneous origin. Thus arose the Great German School, the Canton school, the Levantine school, the Spanish School and Italian school. The buildings still form an architectural complex of great interest.

Campo Sant’Angelo - Venice It owes its name to the church of the same name that once stood there, it is a large open z shaped space, located in a major connection point, in the heart of the city. The buildings of greater historical and architectural significance in the field are the Trevisan building, Pisani House, Gritti Morosini House, Duodo house and the complex of the monastery of Saint Stephens. There are also two wells of the fifteenth century, both placed between Gritti House and Duodo House. 31

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Saint Barnabas Field

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Field of Frari

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Manin Field

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Field of St. Maurizio

Campo San Barnaba - Venice Dominated by the Church of St. Barnabas, was most often used as a film set. Among the most famous films that contain scenes shot here include “Summertime,” with Katharine Hepburn and Rossano Brazzi (in the scene where the protagonist falls into the water in the channel), and “Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade “starring Harrison Ford (in the scene where the protagonist explores the underground church, in reality non-existent).

Campo dei Frari - Venice The field is L shaped and it is one of the most important and popular of the lagoon city for the presence of the complex of the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, one of the largest Religious buildings of Venice, containing major works of the Renaissance period, like the two blades of Tiziano. In the field facing the basilca is the monastery of the Franciscans, the current State Archives in Venice. It also presents a well on the tower side.

Campo Manin - Venice At the center of the field there is a monument to Daniele Manin(1875) by Luigi Borro. The far side opposite to the river is closed by Nerve-Scattolin Palace, home of the Savings Bank of Venice, which according to some is a break in the stylistic contrast to the other buildings in this area. This project is by Pier Luigi Nervi, contributed to the 150th anniversary of the bank in 1972.

Campo San Maurizio - Venice It has a certain significance as well as a significant size, and for buildings that surround it. Overlooking the Church of St. Maurice, Bellavite house, Molin house and house Zaguri. Since 1970 home to an antiques market which is held for four weekends a year.

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Field of Saint Polo

Campo San Polo - Venice Saint Polos field is the largest field of Venice. It was initially intended to grow crops and for grazing. In 1493 was entirely paved and the well was placed at the center of the field then used as a place to come for markets, fairs and large meetings. In 1548 Lorenzino de ‘Medici was assassinated there, he was stabbed by two assassins in the service of Cosimo de’ Medici. Overlooking the field are Corner House and the Mocenigo Soranzo building.

10 Field of Saint Rocco

Campo San Rocco - Venice Jewel of Venetian architecture. The name of the field is given by the church and Grand school of Saint Rocco, which were built there, giving, with their white piers, the dominant aspect of the field. The portals of the church and the school are joined every year on Aug. 16 by a tent supported on a wooden structure. The tent is the result of an ancient vote of the Senate and Lords for the liberation of the city from the plague. .

11 Field of Health

Fondamenta della Dogana alla Salute, 2-9 - Venice Overlooking the Basilica of St. Mary of Health, the Patriarchal Seminary and the back prospect of the Sea-Customs building. It is without doubt one of the most visible from the Grand Canal and subject of countless paintings by Canaletto. Every year on 21 November, the Feast of Our Lady of Health is celebrated, during which, are united by a bridge of boats the very picturesque shore of the opposite side of the Grand Canal.

12 Field of Saint Stephen

Campo Santo Stefano - Venice One of the most extensive of Venice onto which the Church of St. Stephen’s, Church of Saint Vidal, Morosini House, Pisani House and Loredan House. At the center of the field stands a statue dedicated to Nicholas Tommaseo. During the spring the children of Venice use this space as a playground.

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WHERE TO SLEEP If you are pressed for time and want to see as many of the big tourist sights as possible, it’s a good idea to concentrate your hotel search in the San Marco area. If it’s important to be near the railway station or the bus stops at Piazzale Roma, look for a hotel in south-western Cannaregio, north Dorsoduro or the eastern corners of Santa Croce or San Polo. For bars and nightlife, such as it is, studenty Dorsoduro and the area around the Rialto are busiest. In northern Cannaregio and eastern Castello you’ll find quieter residential areas for a more ‘authentic’ Venetian stay. IN THE CENTRE Central Venice is full of picturesque canals, narrow lanes, tourist thoroughfares and the occasional dodgy smell. These features are pretty consistent, so it’s hard to make generalised recommendations about the different districts. The busiest tourist areas are around San Marco, Piazzale Roma and the railway station - although there are plenty of nice lanes, these areas are the most noisy and hectic. For a short trip, staying either near these transport hubs or near St. Mark’s will help you make the most of your time.

phere on the Lido is very different to Venice: there are leafy avenues, roads, cars and pavements. You can hire bicycles. Out of season it feels ‘normal’, with reasonably-priced shops and restaurants, and locals taking their children for walks. In the summer the big hotels open for the season, streams of beach-goers cross from the lagoon, and there are ice-cream shops on every corner. There are frequent ferries crossing between the Lido and Venice, so you don’t feel totally cut off from the town centre. The boat takes 20 minutes to St. Mark’s. Lido hotels are generally cheaper than those in Venice.

THE LIDO The Lido is an island, the narrow strip of land between Venice in its lagoon and the Adriatic Sea. Most of the beach is lined with beach huts and establishments where you pay for sunbeds. Some hotels have their own section of beach, or arrangement with one. There is also some free beach where you can turn up with your towel and lie on the ground. The atmos-

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DAYTRIP TO MURANO Like Venice itself, Murano is actually made up of seven small islands, including two manmade ones, divided by canals and small rivers and connected by bridges. It is completely urbanized and, with 4,500 inhabitants, it is one of the most populated parts of the lagoon. Its name Ammurianum is thought to derive from a gate or district of the ancient city of Altino, whose inhabitants took refuge on the islands from the Huns in the year 453. The place is famous all over the world for its glassmaking, a craft that has been practised here for centuries. Glass arrived in Venice around the year 1000 and, thanks to the influence of, and trade with the East, knowledge of glassmaking techniques reached their height at this time. Towards the year 1100, however, due to pollution and the risk of fires, the glass furnaces were forced to move to the nearby island of Murano. And this is how Murano became famous as a place where families hand down the secrets of their craft from one generation to another, secrets that no one has ever been able to rival anywhere else in the world. Glass is made from a mixture of silica sand, oxides and sodas. There are many different types of glass, according to its use. For handmade and hand processed glass, highly specific character-

istics are needed, and with a thousand years of experience and traditions in glassmaking, Murano has perfected these characteristics, creating a type of glass that is workable, of excellent quality, and has stable and brilliant colours. Most tourists peruse the area around Piazzale de la Colonna, searching for typical shops, glass artists’ workshops and memorabilia. The Mecca of Murano glass is the Glass Museum in Palazzo Giustinian. Inside are valuable examples of goblets, vases, chandeliers and sculptures from different periods, all made by local craftsmen. If you want to buy a typical object made of blown glass, the best thing is to go to the furnaces, where you can watch the glassmakers at work and buy directly from them.

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DON’T MISS… RIALTO MARKET

Monday to Saturday, 07.30 to 13.30. Rialto

The Rialto market is the true centre of life in the city. It can be divided up into two parts: the fruit and vegetable market and the fish market. What made the Rialto market really special in the past was the Erbaria, the old fruit, vegetable, herb and flower market. Today hundreds of Venetians and tourists still flock to the Rialto market in the morning to buy excellent produce, often coming from the estuary (Vignole and Sant’Erasmo), at a modest price for a city like Venice. CARNIVAL Revived about twenty years ago, the Venice Carnival instantly became an event not to be missed in Italy and Europe. Loaded with history, charm and tradition, it has sparked fresh interest in the city’s inhabitants and especially in the droves of tourists, thanks to its popular blend of transgression, art, history and culture, all in a city unlike any other in the world.

tacular, picturesque and exhilarating events in the city’s calendar, delighting tourists and arousing excitement and enthusiasm among the locals. A historical procession – a flotilla of typical sixteenth-century vessels headed by the Bucintoro, the vessel representing the former Republic of Venice – commemorates the welcome reserved for Caterina Cornaro in 1489. Caterina was bride to the King of Cyprus, who renounced his throne in favour of Venice. The procession is followed by the rowing races, amid shouts of encouragement and excitement from spectators to their favourite rowers.

HISTORICAL REGATTA Another significant event in Venice is the Historical Regatta, held on the first Sunday in September. Today, it is still one of the most spec-

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VENICE BIENNIAL The Venice Biennial is one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. For over a century, its aim has been to promote new artistic trends. It is among the leading events in the world for its International Film Festival, for the International Art Exhibition and International Architecture Exhibition, for the Music and Theatre Festival and the more recent Dance Festival. Today, the institution is situated in Ca’ Giustinian, in Piazza San Marco 1364/A, but the events are held in different premises around the city.

The Library is open to visitors from Tuesday to Friday, 10.00 to 17.00.

THE BIENNIAL GARDENS The Biennial Gardens are actually public gardens situated in the Castello district and the site of the Venice International Art Exhibition. There are currently 29 pavilions for participants from foreign countries, as well as a Central Pavilion for the main exhibition.

THE CENTRAL PAVILION Built in 1894 at the instigation of Venice City Council, in 1895 it hosted the first Biennial Exhibition. The building was designed by Enrico Trevisanato, in collaboration with De Maria and Bartolomeo Bezzi for the art-nouveau façade. For 10 years, the Biennial was concentrated in this building alone, and artists from every nation exhibited alongside each other without any division. It was only in 1907 that the Belgium pavilion started construction of what became national pavilions. Today, the 3,500 sq. m. building, with 2,800 sq. m. reserved for exhibitions, has been transformed into a space open all year round for the numerous activities

THE BIENNIAL LIBRARY In August 2010 the Biennial Library, occupying 1,400 sq. m. of the Central Pavilion, was inaugurated. Inside is a reading room of over 305 sq. m. on two different levels, and 800 metres of shelves holding the 130 volumes of the ASAC (Historical Archives of Contemporary Art).

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organized there. NATIONAL PAVILIONS From 1907, following the construction of the first national pavilion by Belgium, another 28 pavilions were gradually built over the years. Each one was designed to exhibit and promote its own national artistic trends. Thus the Great Britain pavilion was built in 1909, the United States of America pavilion in 1930, the Nordic Countries pavilion in 1962 and lastly the Korea pavilion in 1995. All were designed by great artists, who made each pavilion into a showpiece of 20th-century architecture. PALAZZO DEL CINEMA The main venue for the Venice International Film Festival, it was inaugurated on 10 August 1937 in the fifth year of the event. The biggest names in international film have been here, and actors and directors still consider it one of the most important world gatherings. Inside the Palace is the famous Sala Grande, or Grand Hall, with capacity for 1,100 people. THE ARSENAL The Venice Arsenal represents a very extensive part of the island city and was the heart of the Venetian naval industry from the 12th century onwards. It is the most important example of a large production complex in the preindustrial economy. It covered a surface area of 46 hectares, and up to 2,000 people worked there every day. Currently, only a small part of it is used as one of the exhibition venues for the Venice Biennial. Inside the Arsenal is the Giardino delle Vergini, or Garden of Virgins, an extensive park of 14,000 sq. m., which has been undergoing major salvage and reclamation work since 2001.

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FOOD

VENICE FOOD A city that has had contact with numerous regions of Italy and beyond the Alps, over the centuries Venice has established a culinary tradition of simple food, with a wide variety of ingredients, especially spices. Famous Venetian recipes, such as baccalà mantecato, creamed salt cod, pasta e fagioli, bean and pasta soup, risi e bisi, rice and pea soup and patate alla veneziana, braised potatoes, are based on international ingredients. We need only think of salt cod from the Baltic, spices from Asia, maize, potatoes, tomatoes, beans, sweet peppers and turkey from America, and rice from Eastern Europe, to realise that the many dif-

ferent dishes served today originate from very different cultures and traditions. The history of Venetian food is closely intertwined with historical, political and religious events. For instance, the use of dried cod in a city where fishing has always guaranteed its inhabitants fresh fish is due to the long periods of abstinence from meat, imposed by the Council of Trent as a sign of repentance for believers. Venice therefore offers a wide variety of dishes for different tastes. For a quick lunch break, though, the fashionable thing is to have a sandwich with a glass of spritz, the local aperitif.

Calf’s liver Venetian style

Ingredients: 600 g of calf’s liver; 700 g of white onions; 2 tablespoons of olive oil; a knob of butter; salt and pepper to taste Method: Cut half a kilo of calf’s liver into thin slices not too long. Slice two large onions finely and soften them slowly in the oil and butter, keeping the pan covered. Remove the pan from the heat and leave until the onions are warm but not hot. Add the liver to the pan and put it back on the heat. After two or three minutes, stir again and leave to cook for another couple of minutes. Add salt. Serve the liver with slices of grilled or roasted polenta.

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VENICE Risi e bisi

Ingredients: 1 kg of fresh peas with their pods; 1 large bunch of parsley; 2 fresh baby onions; 50 g of pancetta, or bacon, in one piece; 60 g of butter; 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil; 1.2 litres of light stock; 200 g of rice; 3 tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese; salt and pepper to taste Method: Make a light stock with a stock cube and leave it to cool. Shell the peas. Wash the pods and place them in a saucepan with the cold stock; boil for about 60 minutes over moderate heat. Then filter the stock and sieve the cooked pods; add the sieved pure to the filtered stock. Finely chop the bacon; trim, wash and finely chop the parsley; peel and finely chop the onion. Melt half the butter in a saucepan with the oil; fry the onion, bacon and parsley. Add the peas and let them absorb the flavours for a minute or two, adding a few ladles of stock. Next, add all the rest of the stock and salt if needed, and pepper, and bring to the boil. Then add the rice. Stir often with a wooden spoon and cook until the rice is al dente, i.e. chewy, but not hard. As a precaution, it is best to keep some boiling water close to hand in case the soup gets too dry. The final consistency should be that of a thick soup. After turning off the heat, add the rest of the butter and the Parmesan cheese to give a creamy texture.

WHERE TO EAT IN VENICE? Venice is not a cheap city. If you want to eat well and spend little, the Bacari are the best places. These are typical taverns, named after a wine from the Puglia region that was very popular in the city in the 18th century. These are no-frills places where you can eat real Venetian cicheti (small eats and side dishes).

The Bacari are small, sociable places dotted among the streets and canals, providing tasty food at an affordable price. Be aware that the prices of a cup of coffee or a small bottle of water in Piazza San Marco can sometimes be very high.

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VENETIAN GLOSSARY GONDOLA The unofficial symbol of Venice for over a thousand years, in the past the gondola was used to connect the different parts of the city, which had far more canals and fewer bridges then. Elegant and silent, it used to have a Felze, a wooden structure covered with an awning to shelter passengers. Today the gondola is open, but still painted black, according to an ancient decree of the old Venetian Republic (1633). Eleven metres long and slightly asymmetrical, it has a flat bottom, to enable the gondolier to manoeuvre it with the use of just one oar, even in very shallow water. The oar rests on an oar lock called the forcola, which has a characteristic shape and is removed after use. The dolfin (metal ornament on the bow) helps to balance the boat, and its six “teeth” represent the six districts of Venice, including the island of Giudecca and the Doge’s Hat. The metal ornament on the stern is known as the risso. It can take up to a year to assemble the 280 pieces of different kinds of wood composing a gondola.

CICHETI Various small eats and local dishes served in taverns to accompany a few glasses of wine. They may consist of boiled beans, small meat balls, small bites of cheese, artichokes fried in breadcrumbs, boiled onions, slices of cold meats with pickled vegetables, baked mussels, fried sardines, etc. OMBRA A glass of wine drunk in a tavern. The term, which means “shadow”, may derive from the stalls that used to sell wine in Piazza San Marco, which kept moving around during the day in order to stay in the shadow of the Bell Tower. ALTANE A highly distinctive sort of wooden terrace erected on the roof of some Venetian buildings. Almost certainly borrowed from the East, the idea was to create somewhere where people could sit in the sun or hang out washing in a city tightly enclosed by its often dark and damp streets. Once upon a time, young Venetian women would bleach their hair in the sun on their altane, using a hat with a hole in the middle, to pull their hair through.

BRICIOLE E PALINE These are poles made from an almost indestructible kind of wood, “Robina” acacia. Driven into the bed of the lagoon sometimes singly, (palina) sometimes alongside groups of three or more (bricola), they are used to mark the end of a navigable canal and the start of shallow water. Since their institution in 1439, they have not changed at all today, except for the addition of reflectors and sometimes a light for night navigation. Some types of paline can also be found in the inner canals of the city. They were once decorated with the symbols of different noble families and were used as berths.

BACCALA’ Dried cod. A typical Venetian recipe is creamed dried cod. The dried cod is soaked in water for a while, then boiled in milk. After adding a few other ingredients according to taste, it is stirred for a long time until it becomes a very tasty puree. FONDAMENTA A street with buildings along one side only, and the other side running alongside a canal or other waterway.

CALLE A typical street in Venice. In the whole city, there is only one street with the word strada (Italian for “street” or “road”) in its name, the Strada Nova. There are another two with the word “via”: Via Garibaldi and Via XXII Marzo. All other streets and roads in Venice are called calli (plural of calle).

LANCIA The lancia is a typical Venetian water taxi. Traditionally made of painted wood, today it is often substituted by plastic or fibreglass hulls, sometimes of a very different shape from the original. 45

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